Nestled in the Sri Lankan highlands amidst rolling tea hills, rushing waterfalls, and misty mountaintops, is the remote town of Ella. A tranquil escape from the chaotic cities of Colombo or Kandy, and a cool respite from the steamy beaches along the southern coast, Ella proves worthy of a spot on your Sri Lankan itinerary.
Our Itinerary
Day 1
Train from Kandy to Ella, Explore Ella Town
Day 2
Hike Ella Rock, Nine Arch Bridge
If you’re looking for a full 2-week itinerary for exploring Sri Lanka – I’ve got you covered here.
How to get there
To get to Ella, there are buses from the major cities (Colombo and Kandy), or you can book a taxi from basically anywhere in the country. While these options will certainly get you there, I strongly recommend you to take the train from Kandy to Ella.
Train from Kandy to Ella
If you’re like me, you might be questioning if a 7-hour train ride is really worth it. Sure, everyone says it is one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world, but 7 hours is, well, 7 hours…
Let me stop you right there and reassure you that this journey is absolutely worth the hassle. 7 hours will fly by as you zip past swirling green tea hills, tiny rural towns, rushing waterfalls, and colorful train stations. It was one of the highlights of our trip to Sri Lanka, and it truly lives up to the hype.
After reading many guides (this one I particularly enjoyed) and experiencing the train myself, a few tips for your trip:
šļø Buy reserved tickets in advance. This will help ensure you have a seat and donāt have to elbow your way for one. You can do so online through 12go.asia or at the train station. Online tickets go on sale a month before and sell out quickly! If you buy from the train station, go a day or two in advance of your desired trip date.
ā° Try to avoid weekends. This is a very, very busy train for locals and tourists alike. Book the blue Express train, otherwise this journey will take even longer than 7 hours!
š Choose seats in 2nd or 3rd class, ideally next to a window. In these classes there are windows and doors to peak out of, so you can get the full experience (and views). If you choose to hang your body, arm, leg, etc out of the train, you do so at your own risk! Donāt be dumbā¦
šø Best views are on the right side of the train up to Nanu Oya. After that, best views are on the left side. In other words, the views are amazing on both sides! You can also move freely around the carriage, so donāt stress it.
Last tip, enjoy!!! Take it all in. With your eyes, not just your phone and your camera. This is by far the best train ride Iāve experienced to date.
Things to do in Ella
1. Hike Ella Rock
The hike to Ella Rock offers a myriad of views from start to summit. A bridge led us past children gleefully splashing in the rock pools of a trickling clear waterfall. Trails swirled alongside green rice fields and through the backyards of farmhouses. About halfway is a look out point that offers the first sight of the mountain’s peak, cloaked in shifting wispy clouds. At the end of the trek, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views over Ella, across the plunging valley to Little Adam’s Peak on the other side.
We downloaded and followed the route through AllTrails. The trail isn’t always clearly marked, but it was generally easy to follow.
Getting there: The trailhead starts across the tracks from Kithalella Railway Station, which you can walk to from Ella town or take a tuk tuk.
Duration: About 4 hours. This included the time it took for us to walk from our homestay in Ella, to the trail, and make our way back.
Best time to visit: Start early! Before 8am if you can. The sun and heat is killer by midday.
Difficulty: Moderate. I would say most of the hike is actually a walk. About 20 mins from the summit is when it gets really steep, but this portion doesn’t last long.
Cost: Thereās a fee to enter the view point at the top (900 rupees at the time I’m writing this – 2024). We almost didnāt go in, thinking there was too much cloud cover to see anything. We luckily thought twice and were proven wrong, because the views are absolutely worth the fees. There are public toilets at the top, as well.
Tip: Thereās a rest stop a little more than halfway, where a kind gentleman sells fresh coconuts and water. The views here also happen to be incredible, in case you need a good excuse to take a break.
2. Explore Ella Town
Ella has a number of small restaurants and shops, and most of them are clustered on the main street of Ella Road. For better or worse, tourism has clearly sunk its teeth into this area. There are coffee shops with wooden swings and two-story bars with rotating Guinness signs, but this area is still charming with plenty of gems. We especially enjoyed Cafe One Love – chilled ambiance, lovely staff, and lots of spaces for lounging. An ideal spot for a coffee or a cocktail.
If you’re comfortable driving a scooter, there are a few places you can rent from in this area. Many of the sites in Ella are quite spread out, but the drives to them are very scenic, so this is a great way to explore.
3. Nine Arches Bridge
The Nine Arches Bridge is certainly beautiful, but the crowds are not (lol). This was by far the most touristy attraction we visited in Ella. They even have a train that stops on the track, purely to allow people to pose alongside and on top for a photo op…
For this reason, this was far from our favorite sight, however it was easy to see what the fuss is all about. The stone viaduct bridge is framed on all sides by a flourishing jungle, and it towers over lush green tea hills. It’s a truly impressive piece of architecture.
Getting there: Easiest option is taking a tuk tuk, which will drop you off right by the best view points. We opted to rent a scooter and drive. The roads get quite precarious the closer you get to the bridge. I suggest parking at or near this car park and walking the rest of the way (around 10 minutes).
Best time to visit: If you want to beat the crowds, I suggest going in the morning.
Food and drinks: There are a couple of stands surrounding the bridge selling refreshments. We didn’t make it, but we had multiple recommendations for Asanka Cafe, which offers sweeping aerial views of the bridge.
Cost: Free
4. Ravana Waterfall
As we drove out of Ella, we navigated winding roads along the rolling cliffs. Rounding a bend, we nearly missed it if not for the sudden cluster of parked cars and roadside stalls. There stood the Ravana waterfall, cascading boldly near the road, carving a clear path of flowing water and slick rock through the lush greenery.
There’s a clear viewing area from where we watched cheeky monkeys scampering along the waterfall’s edge. This is a great pit stop, but I don’t think it requires going out of your way for.
Getting there: The waterfall is only 10 minutes drive from Ella, super easy to reach by scooter, car, or tuk tuk.
Cost: Free
Where to eat in Ella
The Clay Pot Ella – A little treehouse overlooking the train tracks with delicious food, lovely ambiance, and the sweetest owners.
Matey Hut – A spot recommended by multiple locals serving classic (and tasty) Sri Lankan curries. We especially enjoyed the fried okra.
Cafe Chill – This will likely be on every guide you read. It is very commercialized and substantially overpriced compared to other options. That being said, the food was very good. We visited for lunch and they had lots of options outside of curry, which was welcomed. There’s also a nightclub in this place if you’re looking to get a little rowdy.
Accommodation in Ella
Your dollar can really go far in Ella with tons of affordable yet beautiful accommodation options to choose from.
Home Stays and Hotels in Ella
Chamodya Home Stay $ – The views are reason alone to book this homestay. The property is ideally located within walking distance to town, but still remote and peaceful. The owner Lilu, is an angel on earth and treats you to her delectable homemade breakfast each morning. And last but not least, it’s insanely cheap
Ella 100 View Cottage $$ – Adorable cottages with private balconies, high ceilings, and exposed wood beams.
Mountain Heavens $$$ – An infinity pool overlooking an unbelievable view that’s worth the price tag if you’re looking to splurge.
Where to go after Ella, Sri Lanka
Following Ella I’d recommend heading south to Yala National Park for safari or any of the stunning beach towns along the coast. I’ve put together a 2-week itinerary here. If youāre looking for the perfect mix of surf and exploring everything Sri Lanka has to offer, this guide has you covered!
Ella requires a lot of travel to get to. Although absolutely worth it, I was ultimately happy that I front loaded the more chaotic and heavier lift travel days early in the trip, saving relaxing beach days for the end.
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