If you’re looking for the perfect mix of surf and exploring everything Sri Lanka has to offer in just two weeks, this guide has you covered!

Kandy

Kandy is a city equal parts chaotic, vibrant, and sacred. A city full of competing sounds – cawing crows, bleating tuk-tuks, thrumming drums, and whining brass horns. A city I had low expectations for, but left wishing I had more time.

Where to stay in Kandy

Square Peg Hotel $$- The views and ambiance of this property exceeded expectations in every way. Potted plants overflow from the hotel walls and intertwine with the neighboring plantlife, giving the hotel an effortlessly cool, post-apocalyptic treehouse vibe (in the best way). Their rooftop deck overlooks the bustling city below, and the food was so good we opted to have all our meals there.

36 Bed & Breakfast $ – Rave reviews about the staff, rooms with balconies overlooking the city, really reasonable prices.

The Trees, Kandy $$$ – Stunning terrace and infinity pool overlooking the famous Kandy Lake.

Things to do in Kandy

At the center of the city is Kandy Lake. Leisurely wander through town, taking in the sights and sounds along the way. By the lake is the Kandyan Cultural Center where you can experience a traditional Kandyan dance performance. After the performance, head next door to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. End the evening with dinner on the roof terrace at Square Peg Hotel overlooking the city.

Ella

Ella is a tranquil escape from the chaotic cities of Colombo or Kandy, and a cool respite from the steamy beaches along the southern coast. It offered a breath of fresh air that I found myself craving during our trip. For a more detailed overview with tips on how to spend 2 days visiting Ella, check out my Complete Guide to 2 Days in Ella.

Where to stay in Ella

Chamodya Home Stay $ – The views are reason alone to book this homestay. The property is ideally located within walking distance to town, but still remote and peaceful. The owner Lilu is an angel on earth and treats you to her delectable homemade breakfast each morning. Last but not least, it’s insanely cheap.

Ella 100 View Cottage $$ – Adorable cottages with private balconies, high ceilings, and exposed wood beams.

Mountain Heavens $$$ – An infinity pool overlooking an unbelievable view that’s worth the price tag if you’re looking to splurge.

Things to do in Ella

Train from Kandy to Ella – If you need to get from Kandy to Ella, what better way than one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world. I can confirm it was a highlight of our trip.

Hike Ella Rock – The hike to Ella Rock offers spectacular views from start to summit and can be completed in roughly 4 hours.

Nine Arches Bridge – Although one of the busiest attractions in Ella, this is a truly impressive piece of architecture. The stone viaduct bridge is framed on all sides by a flourishing jungle, and it towers over lush green tea hills.

For tips on taking the train from Kandy to Ella, hiking Ella Rock, and visiting Nine Arches Bridge, check out my Complete Guide to 2 Days in Ella.

Yala National Park

If you’re interested in going on safari, I highly recommend a stop at Yala National Park. The park boasts one of the highest populations of leopards in the world, as well as elephants, crocodiles, and a native species called the sloth bear.

Where to stay in Yala National Park

Yakaduru Yala $$ – We chose Yakaduru for it’s close proximity to the park, stellar reviews, understated property, and reasonable prices compared to others in the area. All meals are included with your stay, so the main additional cost is the safari, which the staff were super helpful in organizing. A huge plus was that our safari was private, meaning we had our wonderful guide Rangana all to ourselves. We were even the first car in line right when the park opened!

Cinnamon Wild Yala $$ – Gorgeous chalets, close to the park, and views of the Indian Ocean in its backyard.

Uga Chena Huts Yala $$$ – Luxury cabins with private plunge pools, this property is a dream. Certainly a bit spendy, but given it’s fully inclusive (yes, your game drives too), I’d say it’s worth it!

Hiriketiya

A small horseshoe bay tucked into the southern coast of Sri Lanka, with perfect turquoise waves breaking off of the point amidst a backdrop of towering palm trees. Hiriketiya is a town my daydreams wander to often.

Surfing Hiriketiya

The most picturesque place I’ve surfed to date! Two waves, one bay. On the left is a fast-moving pointbreak over reef, and as you pan to the right, a beach break that gets gradually more mellow as it spreads across the cove. The result? Waves that are approachable for generally any level of surfer.

Getting to the surf – Walk. There are plenty of great hotels and surf camps an easy walk from the beach.

Crowds – We went during the off-season (late April. Even then, the water tended to get very cozy, especially at the pointbreak. I recommend going first thing in the morning to score the best conditions and beat the crowds.

Renting a board – The beach is lined with surf rental shacks, so there are plenty of options to choose from. They all offer the same price, so you don’t need to worry about bartering. At the time we visited, boards cost 500 LKR (around $2 US) per hour.

Where to stay in Hiriketiya

MOND $$ – I’d describe the vibes here as: casually-cool beach hotel meets modern art museum. Come for the delicious coffee and locally sourced food, stay for the open-air rooms with private views and sounds of the Indian Ocean.

Dots Bay House $ – Situated along the edge of the bay, you can’t beat the location. Dots offers rooms ranging from shared studio hostels to poolside bungalows, all with laid back vibes. They are also the go-to spot for nightlife, with weekly open mic nights and lots of live music events.

Salty Pelican $$ – If you’re looking for surf camp vibes (surf lessons, group dinners, and vibey communal spaces), Salty Pelican came highly recommended by fellow travelers.

Where to eat in Hiriketiya

Smoke & Bitters – For a departure from the local curries, stop into Smoke & Bitters. They’re serving up some tasty plates and dangerously good cocktails. Although a bit pricey, the food and vibes while watching sunset through the coconut grove, all make sure this spot lives up to the hype.

Hiriketiya Beach Bus Restaurant – As close as it gets to ‘waterfront dining’. Our toes were literally being kissed by the ocean as we enjoyed fresh calamari and cold Lion Lagers.

Cinnamon-7 Seafood Restaurant – Treehouse style restaurant serving traditional lobster and crab dishes.

Ahangama

The last stop on our Sri Lankan adventure, Ahangama is the perfect spot to slow down, soak in your remaining days on the island, and commemorate an incredible trip.

Surfing Ahangama

Ahangama has lots of surf breaks to choose from (Marshmellow, Kabalana, Animals). It’s also an easy tuk-tuk ride to nearby breaks in Weligama and Marissa, making it an ideal home base.

For beginners, Weligama is a great option because it offers a wide beach break with plenty of space to spread out. If you’re ready to graduate from beach to reef break, Marshmellow is a good spot to test the waters. It’s a slow, rolling left and one of the deepest reef breaks on the south coast. My favorite surf session in Sri Lanka was at Marshmellow!

Getting to the surf – Tuk-tuk! The drivers are used to transporting surfers and their boards. Tip: agree on a price before taking your trip to avoid any surprises. A lot of drivers will also happily arrange a time to pick you up after your sesh.

Crowds – Most of the breaks can be seen from the main road. This makes it easy to check the conditions and crowds before paddling out. Like most surf spots, I’d recommend paddling out early to avoid crowds.

More tips – With so many breaks to choose from, we found it really handy to stay at a place like Dreamsea. The staff provided great advice on the local breaks and how to access them safely! Warning: a lot of the reef breaks are covered in sea urchins, so be really careful getting in and out of the water.

Where to stay in Ahangama

Dreamsea Sri Lanka $$ – Living up to its name – Dreamsea offers a trendy, bohemian vibe and a surf break directly on its back door. Their team was always available to advise on the best surf and make sure we were sorted with transportation. When we weren’t surfing, the pool and lawn overlooking the ocean was the perfect place to spend an afternoon.

Gitano Surf Beachfront Ahangama $ – When they say ‘beachfront’, they really aren’t kidding. There are only two rooms on the property, and they couldn’t be closer to the water’s edge. We spent our last night here, and it was the perfect place to end the trip.

Lighthouse Ahangama $$ – Vibey roof terrace, private beach, and understated rooms with balconies overlooking the ocean.

Where to eat in Ahangama

Manori’s Kitchen – Our favorite curry of the trip we had at Manori’s Kitchen. Requires a tuk-tuk ride and a stroll down some dimly lit streets, but is worth the effort for a traditional home cooked meal!

Hotel de Uncles – For cocktails and light bites, a stop at @hoteldeuncles needs to be on your list. Their espresso martini is the best I’ve ever had. And that’s saying something.

Indigo Indian Bar & Kitchen – Traditional Indian food, delicious thalis, and a beautiful view of sunset from the back lawn.

And that’s a wrap! Sri Lanka is a fairly small country, but there really is such a variety of things to see and do on this island. Other places we considered visiting but didn’t have the time for this trip include: Sigiriya, Arugam Bay, and the capital city of Colombo. That leaves a few good reasons to return, which I fully hope to do at some point down the line.

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How to get there

To get to Ella, there are buses from the major cities (Colombo and Kandy), or you can book a taxi from basically anywhere in the country. While these options will certainly get you there, I strongly recommend you to take the train from Kandy to Ella.

Train from Kandy to Ella

If you’re like me, you might be questioning if a 7-hour train ride is really worth it. Sure, everyone says it is one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world, but 7 hours is, well, 7 hours…

Let me stop you right there and reassure you that this journey is absolutely worth the hassle. 7 hours will fly by as you zip past swirling green tea hills, tiny rural towns, rushing waterfalls, and colorful train stations. It was one of the highlights of our trip to Sri Lanka, and it truly lives up to the hype.

After reading many guides (this one I particularly enjoyed) and experiencing the train myself, a few tips for your trip:

🎟️ Buy reserved tickets in advance. This will help ensure you have a seat and don’t have to elbow your way for one. You can do so online through 12go.asia or at the train station. Online tickets go on sale a month before and sell out quickly! If you buy from the train station, go a day or two in advance of your desired trip date.
⏰ Try to avoid weekends. This is a very, very busy train for locals and tourists alike. Book the blue Express train, otherwise this journey will take even longer than 7 hours!
🚂 Choose seats in 2nd or 3rd class, ideally next to a window. In these classes there are windows and doors to peak out of, so you can get the full experience (and views). If you choose to hang your body, arm, leg, etc out of the train, you do so at your own risk! Don’t be dumb…
📸 Best views are on the right side of the train up to Nanu Oya. After that, best views are on the left side. In other words, the views are amazing on both sides! You can also move freely around the carriage, so don’t stress it.

Last tip, enjoy!!! Take it all in. With your eyes, not just your phone and your camera. This is by far the best train ride I’ve experienced to date.

Things to do in Ella

1. Hike Ella Rock

The hike to Ella Rock offers a myriad of views from start to summit. A bridge led us past children gleefully splashing in the rock pools of a trickling clear waterfall. Trails swirled alongside green rice fields and through the backyards of farmhouses. About halfway is a look out point that offers the first sight of the mountain’s peak, cloaked in shifting wispy clouds. At the end of the trek, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views over Ella, across the plunging valley to Little Adam’s Peak on the other side.

We downloaded and followed the route through AllTrails. The trail isn’t always clearly marked, but it was generally easy to follow.

Getting there: The trailhead starts across the tracks from Kithalella Railway Station, which you can walk to from Ella town or take a tuk tuk.
Duration: About 4 hours. This included the time it took for us to walk from our homestay in Ella, to the trail, and make our way back.
Best time to visit: Start early! Before 8am if you can. The sun and heat is killer by midday.
Difficulty: Moderate. I would say most of the hike is actually a walk. About 20 mins from the summit is when it gets really steep, but this portion doesn’t last long.
Cost: There’s a fee to enter the view point at the top (900 rupees at the time I’m writing this – 2024). We almost didn’t go in, thinking there was too much cloud cover to see anything. We luckily thought twice and were proven wrong, because the views are absolutely worth the fees. There are public toilets at the top, as well.
Tip: There’s a rest stop a little more than halfway, where a kind gentleman sells fresh coconuts and water. The views here also happen to be incredible, in case you need a good excuse to take a break.

2. Explore Ella Town

Ella has a number of small restaurants and shops, and most of them are clustered on the main street of Ella Road. For better or worse, tourism has clearly sunk its teeth into this area. There are coffee shops with wooden swings and two-story bars with rotating Guinness signs, but this area is still charming with plenty of gems. We especially enjoyed Cafe One Love – chilled ambiance, lovely staff, and lots of spaces for lounging. An ideal spot for a coffee or a cocktail.

If you’re comfortable driving a scooter, there are a few places you can rent from in this area. Many of the sites in Ella are quite spread out, but the drives to them are very scenic, so this is a great way to explore.

3. Nine Arches Bridge

The Nine Arches Bridge is certainly beautiful, but the crowds are not (lol). This was by far the most touristy attraction we visited in Ella. They even have a train that stops on the track, purely to allow people to pose alongside and on top for a photo op…

For this reason, this was far from our favorite sight, however it was easy to see what the fuss is all about. The stone viaduct bridge is framed on all sides by a flourishing jungle, and it towers over lush green tea hills. It’s a truly impressive piece of architecture.

Getting there: Easiest option is taking a tuk tuk, which will drop you off right by the best view points. We opted to rent a scooter and drive. The roads get quite precarious the closer you get to the bridge. I suggest parking at or near this car park and walking the rest of the way (around 10 minutes).
Best time to visit: If you want to beat the crowds, I suggest going in the morning.
Food and drinks: There are a couple of stands surrounding the bridge selling refreshments. We didn’t make it, but we had multiple recommendations for Asanka Cafe, which offers sweeping aerial views of the bridge.
Cost: Free

4. Ravana Waterfall

As we drove out of Ella, we navigated winding roads along the rolling cliffs. Rounding a bend, we nearly missed it if not for the sudden cluster of parked cars and roadside stalls. There stood the Ravana waterfall, cascading boldly near the road, carving a clear path of flowing water and slick rock through the lush greenery.

There’s a clear viewing area from where we watched cheeky monkeys scampering along the waterfall’s edge. This is a great pit stop, but I don’t think it requires going out of your way for.

Getting there: The waterfall is only 10 minutes drive from Ella, super easy to reach by scooter, car, or tuk tuk.
Cost: Free

Where to eat in Ella

The Clay Pot Ella – A little treehouse overlooking the train tracks with delicious food, lovely ambiance, and the sweetest owners.

Matey Hut – A spot recommended by multiple locals serving classic (and tasty) Sri Lankan curries. We especially enjoyed the fried okra.

Cafe Chill – This will likely be on every guide you read. It is very commercialized and substantially overpriced compared to other options. That being said, the food was very good. We visited for lunch and they had lots of options outside of curry, which was welcomed. There’s also a nightclub in this place if you’re looking to get a little rowdy.

Where to go after Ella, Sri Lanka

Following Ella I’d recommend heading south to Yala National Park for safari or any of the stunning beach towns along the coast. I’ve put together a 2-week itinerary here. If you’re looking for the perfect mix of surf and exploring everything Sri Lanka has to offer, this guide has you covered!

Ella requires a lot of travel to get to. Although absolutely worth it, I was ultimately happy that I front loaded the more chaotic and heavier lift travel days early in the trip, saving relaxing beach days for the end.

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