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ASIA, BLOG, DESTINATIONS, SRI LANKA · October 3, 2024

Surf & Explore Sri Lanka: 2 Week Itinerary


I discovered Sri Lanka in a surf magazine. I was instantly drawn to images of turquoise water, surfers without wetsuits, and swaying palm trees. A few google searches later, I quickly learned that in addition to epic waves and pristine coastline, Sri Lanka is home to lush jungles, misty mountaintops, and a rich culture. Suffice to say it was pushed to the top of my bucket list, and I’m happy to report my time on the island lived up to all expectations.

If you’re looking for the perfect mix of surf and exploring everything Sri Lanka has to offer in just two weeks, this guide has you covered!

Surfer exiting the water at Hiriketiya Beach in Sri Lanka

Surf FAQs

Does Sri Lanka have good surfing? – Yes! There are two main coasts offering stellar surf. On the South Coast, you have places like Hiriketiya, Ahangama, and Weligama. On the East Coast, the main attraction is Arugam Bay.

In efforts to make the most of our 2 weeks, balancing time in the water with exploring the country, we decided to prioritize the South Coast, which will be the focus in this guide.

Best months to visit (and surf) in Sri Lanka – November to April. This is when you can expect sunny skies and the best surf conditions on the South Coast.

If you’re planning to head to the East Coast (home to the legendary Arugam Bay), the best time is the opposite: May to October. Ultimately, it depends on which part of the island you want to explore—just be sure to plan around the island’s two distinct monsoon seasons.

Where to surf in Sri Lanka for beginners – I’d consider myself an intermediate surfer that leans more beginner, and I found many of the breaks on the South Coast to be very beginner-friendly. In addition to the popular point break, Hiriketiya offers a mellower beach break on the west side of the bay. Weligama is a more sprawling beach break where the gentle waves mean plenty of surf schools nearby. And if you’re ready to try a reef break, Ahangama has plenty of breaks dotted along the coast for you to choose from depending on the conditions.

Do you need a wetsuit to surf in Sri Lanka? – No, the water is gloriously warm. I’m talking 80 to 84 °F. So break out those board shorts and bikinis!

How much does it cost to rent a surfboard in Sri Lanka? – 500 LKR (around $2 US at the time) per hour. At almost all of the breaks we visited, there were rentals set-up along the beach and this seemed to be the going rate.

Surfer coming out of the water at sunset in Ahangama, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka 2 Week Itinerary

Travel from USA to Sri Lanka // 2 days

With time differences and travel times, budget a full 2 days coming from the USA. Don’t worry, it will be worth it!

Kandy // 1 day

Experience the chaos, beauty, and culture of Sri Lanka’s sacred city.

Ella // 2 days

Hop aboard the train from Kandy to Ella and trade bustling city scenes for rolling tea hills, rushing waterfalls, and misty mountaintops.

Yala National Park // 1 day

Go on safari to seek a peak at leopards, elephants, sloth bears, and much more.

Hiriketiya // 3 days

Surf the stunning left-hand point break that rolls through this palm-fringed horseshoe bay, then stroll to neighboring Dikwella for sundowners on the beach.

Ahangama // 3 days

Rent a scooter to visit the beautiful beaches and myriad of surf spots up the coast from Marissa to Ahangama.

Travel from Sri Lanka to USA // 2 days


Getting around – Uber and tuk-tuks. For longer trips, I recommend hiring a private car, which your hotel or homestay can help arrange for you.

Currency – Sri Lankan Rupee

Languages – Sinhala, Tamil, and English.

Visa – A tourist visa is required to enter Sri Lanka. Apply online here.

Kandy

Kandy is a city equal parts chaotic, vibrant, and sacred. A city full of competing sounds – cawing crows, bleating tuk-tuks, thrumming drums, and whining brass horns. A city I had low expectations for, but left wishing I had more time.

Woman sitting on a step in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Streets of Kandy, Sri Lanka
Man walking down the train tracks in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Busy street with buses, scooters, and tuk-tuks in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Men performing a traditional dance in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Tuk-tuk in Kandy, Sri Lanka

Where to stay in Kandy

Square Peg Hotel $$- The views and ambiance of this property exceeded expectations in every way. Potted plants overflow from the hotel walls and intertwine with the neighboring plantlife, giving the hotel an effortlessly cool, post-apocalyptic treehouse vibe (in the best way). Their rooftop deck overlooks the bustling city below, and the food was so good we opted to have all our meals there.

36 Bed & Breakfast $ – Rave reviews about the staff, rooms with balconies overlooking the city, really reasonable prices.

The Trees, Kandy $$$ – Stunning terrace and infinity pool overlooking the famous Kandy Lake.

Things to do in Kandy

At the center of the city is Kandy Lake. Leisurely wander through town, taking in the sights and sounds along the way. By the lake is the Kandyan Cultural Center where you can experience a traditional Kandyan dance performance. After the performance, head next door to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. End the evening with dinner on the roof terrace at Square Peg Hotel overlooking the city.

Kandy Lake in Sri Lanka
View from a room at the Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
King coconut cut open at Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Enjoying a coconut on the roof deck at Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
View from a room at the Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
View from the roof deck at Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Breakfast at the Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Breakfast at the Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka
View from Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka

Ella

Ella is a tranquil escape from the chaotic cities of Colombo or Kandy, and a cool respite from the steamy beaches along the southern coast. It offered a breath of fresh air that I found myself craving during our trip. For a more detailed overview with tips on how to spend 2 days visiting Ella, check out my Complete Guide to 2 Days in Ella.

Where to stay in Ella

Chamodya Home Stay $ – The views are reason alone to book this homestay. The property is ideally located within walking distance to town, but still remote and peaceful. The owner Lilu is an angel on earth and treats you to her delectable homemade breakfast each morning. Last but not least, it’s insanely cheap.

Ella 100 View Cottage $$ – Adorable cottages with private balconies, high ceilings, and exposed wood beams.

Mountain Heavens $$$ – An infinity pool overlooking an unbelievable view that’s worth the price tag if you’re looking to splurge.

View from room at Chamodya homestay in Ella, Sri Lanka
Breakfast with a view at Chamodya Homestay in Ella, Sri Lanka

Things to do in Ella

Train from Kandy to Ella – If you need to get from Kandy to Ella, what better way than one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world. I can confirm it was a highlight of our trip.

Hike Ella Rock – The hike to Ella Rock offers spectacular views from start to summit and can be completed in roughly 4 hours.

Nine Arches Bridge – Although one of the busiest attractions in Ella, this is a truly impressive piece of architecture. The stone viaduct bridge is framed on all sides by a flourishing jungle, and it towers over lush green tea hills.

For tips on taking the train from Kandy to Ella, hiking Ella Rock, and visiting Nine Arches Bridge, check out my Complete Guide to 2 Days in Ella.

Conductor waving a flag that train is leaving at the station in Kandy, Sri Lanka
Kandy to Ella train winding through the countryside with mountains in the background
Girls smiling and hanging out of the train doors from Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka
Nine Arches Bridge in Sri Lanka
Overlooking the valley and mountains from the summit hiking Ella Rock
Waterfall on hike to Ella Rock

Yala National Park

If you’re interested in going on safari, I highly recommend a stop at Yala National Park. The park boasts one of the highest populations of leopards in the world, as well as elephants, crocodiles, and a native species called the sloth bear.

Where to stay in Yala National Park

Yakaduru Yala $$ – We chose Yakaduru for it’s close proximity to the park, stellar reviews, understated property, and reasonable prices compared to others in the area. All meals are included with your stay, so the main additional cost is the safari, which the staff were super helpful in organizing. A huge plus was that our safari was private, meaning we had our wonderful guide Rangana all to ourselves. We were even the first car in line right when the park opened!

Cinnamon Wild Yala $$ – Gorgeous chalets, close to the park, and views of the Indian Ocean in its backyard.

Uga Chena Huts Yala $$$ – Luxury cabins with private plunge pools, this property is a dream. Certainly a bit spendy, but given it’s fully inclusive (yes, your game drives too), I’d say it’s worth it!

View of an elephant on safari in Yala National Park
Safari guide in Yala National Park in Sri Lanka
View of a leopard on safari in Yala National Park, Sri Lanka
View of elephants on safari in Yala National Park
View of elephants on safari in Yala National Park

Hiriketiya

A small horseshoe bay tucked into the southern coast of Sri Lanka, with perfect turquoise waves breaking off of the point amidst a backdrop of towering palm trees. Hiriketiya is a town my daydreams wander to often.

Surfing Hiriketiya

The most picturesque place I’ve surfed to date! Two waves, one bay. On the left is a fast-moving pointbreak over reef, and as you pan to the right, a beach break that gets gradually more mellow as it spreads across the cove. The result? Waves that are approachable for generally any level of surfer.

Getting to the surf – Walk. There are plenty of great hotels and surf camps an easy walk from the beach.

Crowds – We went during the off-season (late April. Even then, the water tended to get very cozy, especially at the pointbreak. I recommend going first thing in the morning to score the best conditions and beat the crowds.

Renting a board – The beach is lined with surf rental shacks, so there are plenty of options to choose from. They all offer the same price, so you don’t need to worry about bartering. At the time we visited, boards cost 500 LKR (around $2 US) per hour.

Man fishing at Hiriketiya Beach
Hiriketiya Beach, Sri Lanka
Surfer exiting the water in Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
Man riding scooter through the streets at Hiriketiya Beach
Man running at Hiriketiya Beach

Where to stay in Hiriketiya

MOND $$ – I’d describe the vibes here as: casually-cool beach hotel meets modern art museum. Come for the delicious coffee and locally sourced food, stay for the open-air rooms with private views and sounds of the Indian Ocean.

Dots Bay House $ – Situated along the edge of the bay, you can’t beat the location. Dots offers rooms ranging from shared studio hostels to poolside bungalows, all with laid back vibes. They are also the go-to spot for nightlife, with weekly open mic nights and lots of live music events.

Salty Pelican $$ – If you’re looking for surf camp vibes (surf lessons, group dinners, and vibey communal spaces), Salty Pelican came highly recommended by fellow travelers.

View from room at MOND in Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
Room at MOND in Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka
View from room at MOND in Hiriketiya, Sri Lanka

Where to eat in Hiriketiya

Smoke & Bitters – For a departure from the local curries, stop into Smoke & Bitters. They’re serving up some tasty plates and dangerously good cocktails. Although a bit pricey, the food and vibes while watching sunset through the coconut grove, all make sure this spot lives up to the hype.

Hiriketiya Beach Bus Restaurant – As close as it gets to ‘waterfront dining’. Our toes were literally being kissed by the ocean as we enjoyed fresh calamari and cold Lion Lagers.

Cinnamon-7 Seafood Restaurant – Treehouse style restaurant serving traditional lobster and crab dishes.


Ahangama

The last stop on our Sri Lankan adventure, Ahangama is the perfect spot to slow down, soak in your remaining days on the island, and commemorate an incredible trip.

Swing hanging from a palm tree over the water in Ahangama
Sticks in the water that men stand on to fish in Ahangama, Sri Lanka

Surfing Ahangama

Ahangama has lots of surf breaks to choose from (Marshmellow, Kabalana, Animals). It’s also an easy tuk-tuk ride to nearby breaks in Weligama and Marissa, making it an ideal home base.

For beginners, Weligama is a great option because it offers a wide beach break with plenty of space to spread out. If you’re ready to graduate from beach to reef break, Marshmellow is a good spot to test the waters. It’s a slow, rolling left and one of the deepest reef breaks on the south coast. My favorite surf session in Sri Lanka was at Marshmellow!

Getting to the surf – Tuk-tuk! The drivers are used to transporting surfers and their boards. Tip: agree on a price before taking your trip to avoid any surprises. A lot of drivers will also happily arrange a time to pick you up after your sesh.

Crowds – Most of the breaks can be seen from the main road. This makes it easy to check the conditions and crowds before paddling out. Like most surf spots, I’d recommend paddling out early to avoid crowds.

More tips – With so many breaks to choose from, we found it really handy to stay at a place like Dreamsea. The staff provided great advice on the local breaks and how to access them safely! Warning: a lot of the reef breaks are covered in sea urchins, so be really careful getting in and out of the water.

Man sitting on the deck overlooking the water at Gitano Surf Beachfront in Ahangama, Sri Lanka
Man fishing in Ahangama

Where to stay in Ahangama

Dreamsea Sri Lanka $$ – Living up to its name – Dreamsea offers a trendy, bohemian vibe and a surf break directly on its back door. Their team was always available to advise on the best surf and make sure we were sorted with transportation. When we weren’t surfing, the pool and lawn overlooking the ocean was the perfect place to spend an afternoon.

Gitano Surf Beachfront Ahangama $ – When they say ‘beachfront’, they really aren’t kidding. There are only two rooms on the property, and they couldn’t be closer to the water’s edge. We spent our last night here, and it was the perfect place to end the trip.

Lighthouse Ahangama $$ – Vibey roof terrace, private beach, and understated rooms with balconies overlooking the ocean.

View of tuk tuk passing by at entrance to Dreamsea Hotel in Ahangama
View of lawn and ocean from Dreamsea Hotel in Ahanagama, Sri Lanka
Dog at Dreamsea Ahangama, Sri Lanka

Where to eat in Ahangama

Manori’s Kitchen – Our favorite curry of the trip we had at Manori’s Kitchen. Requires a tuk-tuk ride and a stroll down some dimly lit streets, but is worth the effort for a traditional home cooked meal!

Hotel de Uncles – For cocktails and light bites, a stop at @hoteldeuncles needs to be on your list. Their espresso martini is the best I’ve ever had. And that’s saying something.

Indigo Indian Bar & Kitchen – Traditional Indian food, delicious thalis, and a beautiful view of sunset from the back lawn.


And that’s a wrap! Sri Lanka is a fairly small country, but there really is such a variety of things to see and do on this island. Other places we considered visiting but didn’t have the time for this trip include: Sigiriya, Arugam Bay, and the capital city of Colombo. That leaves a few good reasons to return, which I fully hope to do at some point down the line.


In: ASIA, BLOG, DESTINATIONS, SRI LANKA

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All aboard… The train from Kandy to Ella in Sri All aboard…

The train from Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka! This 7 hour train journey transports you from the chaotic city streets of Kandy to the misty mountain tops of Ella. 

It is known as one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world. So does it live up to the hype? Is it worth the 7 hour ride? 

To me, yes, yes, 100% yes. Especially when tickets can be less than $5 USD…After reading tons of guides & then experiencing the train myself, a few tips for your trip:

🎟️ Buy reserved tickets in advance. This will help ensure you have a seat & don’t have to elbow your way for one. You can do so online or at the train station. Online tickets go on sale a month before and sell out quickly! If you buy from the train station, go a day or two in advance of your desired trip date.
⏰ Try to avoid weekends. This is a very very busy train for locals & tourists alike. Book the blue Express train, otherwise this journey will take even longer than 7 hours lol. 
🚂 Choose seats in 2nd or 3rd class, ideally next to a window. In these classes they have open windows & doors where you can get the full experience (& views) to peak out of. If you choose to hang your body, arm, leg, etc out of the train, you do so at your own risk! Don’t be dumb…
📸 Best views are on the right side of the train up to Nanu Oya. After that, best views are on the left side. Aka views are amazing on both sides! You can also move freely around the carriage, so don’t stress it. 

Last tip, enjoy!!! Take it all in. With your eyes, not just your phone & camera 😏. This is by far the best train ride I’ve experienced to date.
Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka is rumored to be one of Kandy to Ella in Sri Lanka is rumored to be one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. 

The train ride is around 7 hours total - zipping past swirling green tea hills, tiny rural towns, rushing waterfalls & colorful stations. 

7 hours might sound like a lot, but I can honestly say, I never found myself bored. Quite the opposite! I was glued to the window (or open doorway 🫠) for fear of missing a single moment. 

As you might have noticed, this train has open windows & doorways that passengers can peak out of. Would you (safely!) give it a try?
If you’re a plant lover like me, you need to add If you’re a plant lover like me, you need to add the Square Peg Hotel in Kandy, Sri Lanka to your bucket list! 

Potted plants overflow from the hotel’s windows and walls, intertwining with trees along its edges, giving the hotel a captivating, post-apocalyptic charm. In the best way..

Square Peg offers a calm oasis overlooking the rowdy city of Kandy just below. The views & this property exceeded our expectations in every way! 🌿
Postcards from Kandy, Sri Lanka. A city equal part Postcards from Kandy, Sri Lanka. A city equal parts chaotic, vibrant & sacred. A city full of competing sounds - cawing crows, bleating tuk tuks, thrumming drums & whining brass horns. A city I had low expectations for, but left wishing I had more time. 

We stopped over in Kandy to take the famous Kandy to Ella train (more on this later!) & were glad to have some time to explore the city, albeit short. Here’s a mini 24 hour guide to Kandy:

DO // At the center of the city is Kandy Lake. Leisurely wander through town taking in the sights along the way. Next to the lake is the Kandyan Cultural Center where you can experience a traditional Kandyan dance performance. After the performance, head next door to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world. 

STAY // The Square Peg Hotel was an oasis overlooking the city. In addition to the incredible views, they also have a gorgeous rooftop where they serve traditional curries in the evening & Sri Lankan breakfast in the morning.
This time last year Dave surprised me with an over This time last year Dave surprised me with an overnight trip to Anza Borrego Desert State Park, and it’s still one of my favorite weekend trips we’ve done while living in San Diego. Here’s a mini guide and some inspo to make the trip! 

GETTING THERE // The park is a super easy and very scenic 2 hour drive from San Diego. Stop in Julian on your way for a slice of their famous apple pie and a trip seemingly back in time. 

STAY // @bungalowsofthedesert_ offer adorable vintage trailers with everything you need to be comfortable (think firewood, gas stove, & tea kettle) yet still get the benefits of camping (think dark starry nights & no neighbors for miles). 

SEE // Font’s Point at sunset is a can’t miss with views across the badlands that i imagine are akin to Mars. Check out my latest reel for a few tips on how to get there.

Awin

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